Rediscovering Wassailing
The Edwardian holiday and entertainment guide book, Entertainments for Every Month, was published in 1916. It offers us some suggestions for observing traditions throughout the year, and in the spirit of the season, we’ll look at their description of “wassailing.”
The tradition of wassailing dates back to pre-Christian times, when farmers would pour cider on their trees to ward off evil spirits. The word "wassail" comes from the Saxon phrase "Waes Hael", which means "Good Health.” The tradition centers around the beverage, itself called, “wassail,” and includes singing and celebration as a community. This is usually done in January, but our guide book has folded it into the Christmas celebration. Here is how the preparation of “wassail” is described:
Then, if the modern host desires to follow in the footsteps of his fathers, he will brew the wassail bowl and the guests gathering round will tell the story of legend or experience and sing the songs, which completes the festivities of Christmas eve, according to ancient custom.
The wassail bowl is presented, nowadays, in the familiar punch bowl, and the brew has been handed down from an English ancestor.
Boil one quart of oatmeal in two quarts of water for three hours, adding half a teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, two sticks of stick cinnamon broken in small pieces and the juice and grated rind of one lemon; remove from the fire and strain through cheesecloth into a large punch-bowl, then stir in four well-beaten eggs, four tablespoonfuls of sugar and two quarts of boiling milk. Just before serving add half a dozen small roasted apples. This, being absolutely free from alcohol, and at the same time a delicious and unusual beverage, will be found excellent to serve a holiday party.
This section of the book describes the tradition of brewing wassail, which includes the custom of gathering to share stories and songs. The Belle Epoque wassail is served in a punch bowl, but still maintains its origins in English tradition. The recipe involves boiling oatmeal with spices, lemon juice, and lemon zest, then straining and mixing it with eggs, sugar, and boiling milk. Roasted apples are added before serving, but this seems to be somewhat for decoration; whatever the reason, the end product is a flavorful, non-alcoholic holiday beverage, ideal for winter festivities.