The Dandy vs. The Gentleman: Etiquette Lessons from Imperial Russia

The following is a piece of etiquette advice from 19th-century Russia that explains why “elegant simplicity” never goes out of style. The translation is our own:

Only the wealthy and noted dandies can have a fine and original outfit, but every respectable young man can and should have simple and decent clothes. Such an outfit consists of: a black cloth or tricot frock coat, fresh and clean underwear, a silk tie, cloth or tricot trousers and vest, and thin and neat shoes that do not creak or knock. Elegant simplicity in clothing is part of the appearance of a man of taste; such a person obviously has no vanity and does not wish to show off in society (even if he is rich) with the originality of the style and color of the material, shiny rings, chains, cufflinks or keychains. Such a person does not look like a man who has just been ripped from the latest fashion illustration. Elegant simplicity in dress is the sign of a man of good society. With the richness of one’s attire, one can only shine, but not draw others to him. One can only attract others through the qualities of the soul, affectionate behavior, and friendliness.

The author, S. Izvolsky (of no apparent relation to the Russian count), says that true class isn't bought; it’s curated. While high fashion is for the elite, decency is available to everyone. So, avoid loud accessories like excessive jewelry or trendy patterns. Clothing should be a backdrop to our personality. While wealth can “shine” (or really, “blind” the people around us), only character and kindness can draw others into building real connections.

Published in 1867, Interesting Notes for Young People belongs to a genre of literature very popular in Imperial Russia: the conduct manual. During this era, Russia was undergoing massive social changes following the emancipation of the serfs in 1861. A new middle class was emerging, and books like this served as essential guides for young men looking to navigate polite society without appearing like nouveaux riches, the newly wealthy who lacked traditional manners.

It’s also worth noticing that “dandies” here are presented as a contrast to the respectable man. To understand this advice, we have to understand the subculture. Dandyism rose to prominence in late 18th-century Britain and France, personified by figures like Beau Brummell. For a dandy, dress was an art form. A dandy often spent hours getting ready, obsessing over the knot of a tie or the fit of a coat. While the dandy seeks perfection, Izvolsky’s “respectable man” seeks invisibility through excellence. The dandy wants to be noticed; the man of taste wants to be remembered, and for his conversation rather than his coat.

While we no longer wear frock coats and tricot trousers daily, the psychology behind this 19th century advice feels modern. Haven’t you heard of “quiet luxury”? Today, we see a shift away from logomania and towards high-quality, unbranded simplicity. Izvolsky called this “elegant simplicity.” We cannot help that first impressions do matter, and that we often do judge a book by its cover; looking like we were “ripped from a fashion illustration” can give the impression of being shallow, or at least overly trendy. In professional settings in particular, “simple and decent” clothing communicates trustworthiness and reliability, whereas flashy attire does the opposite and creates a barrier.

We live in an era of social media peacocking. This bit of advice from Izvolsky reminds us that, while a great outfit might get you a “like” or attract attention, it won’t build any real connection, which still requires “the qualities of the soul.”